So, progress today — I managed to get the frame down into its 3 major pieces. Not only is it now ready for powder coating (should I decide to get fancy), but I can also say with a straight face that this motorcycle is now officially ready for the prep to enter the next 50 years. Whether I will be is another matter entirely.
I also tackled the front wheel hub. Here’s how it went down:
Front wheel Hub / brakes
This is the circlip after removal. Finding the holes in it required more cleaning than I’d like to admit — let’s just say the last person in there was probably still listening to The Beatles on vinyl. Once located, I gave it the screwdriver + pliers treatment. (Think surgical precision, but with more swearing.)
Out will come the bearings next (another day)… at least in theory. To hold the shaft steady, I used my vice, some 2×2 wood pieces (yes, that’s considered “precision engineering” in my garage), and hit it with my trusty electric heater. With a plumbing pipe extension on the wrench, the nut finally surrendered — apparently convinced that resistance was futile.
Springs and shoes followed. The toughest bit? That one pin that doubles as the brake cable guide. I’m convinced the engineers at BSA made that part specifically to test my patience. I almost succumbed.
Frame from 1 to 3 pieces
Next job: splitting the frame. (A, B, C) It pivots at two points, so it was just a matter of driving out a pressed-in tube with a screw, a 5 lb persuader (a.k.a. mallet), and the usual accompaniment of heat. Success!
The bolt holding on (B) to (A) was a bolt and nut but it passed through a tube which was pressed in through the two side arms as well as through the core Frame. I found a screw that had a head which was just smaller than the frame but the thread went into the tube. I used this to drive the tube out using a screwdriver and 5# mallet (persuader) while supporting the back and applying heat with my electrical heat gun. — Success
Next came what I figured would be the most difficult. The Swing Arm Spindle. In the two ends of the swing arm are bronze bushings which the thin bushing can be seen in the two images below showing the spindle end where it accepts the bolt. I found a socket that is a smaller diameter than the bronze bushing, but will push the spindle end. On the bottom I put a socket large enough to accept the shaft as it would come out.
I was intending to use my heat gun but my neighbor had a very handy small propane blow torch so we used that and with 4 hands he could be “heat man” whilc I was BFH man. I destroyed one socket (although I think I can fix the end with a grinder) while pounding, but after continuing with heat and shock waves the shaft started to move. Once it moved a little then it had to come out. Few repositions to get more height for the shaft and quite a few smacks it left it’s home for the past 50 years.
The Service Sheet Revelation:
Turns out my frame (B40-1296) predates a later revision. The manual actually recommends drilling two new grease nipple holes and plugging the old one. Sounds like a weekend project waiting to happen. (What could possibly go wrong with me and power tools?)
In this photo I placed the swing arm spindle back in the swing arm and placed in on the frame to show where it would pass through. You can see the single grease nipple which is offset and might struggle to push grease to both bronze bushings.
The retrofit would be to drill two nearer to the bronze bushings to better allow each bushing to be greased.
Blow Torch – Reference
Not the same Bernomatic brand, but the hunt is on now for a Birthday Present for me :o)
Ximter MAPP Propane Torch Head – Durable Cast Aluminum Body MAP Gas Torch, Fast Self-Ignition & Adjustable Swirl Flame, for Welding Brazing Lighting Melting HAVC DIYer, Gas Welding Equipment – Amazon Canada
Because nothing says “midlife motorcycle restoration crisis” like unwrapping a blowtorch on your birthday. 🎂🔥